After different attempts, I finally achieved to book my place at “Menu Degustazione”, the exhibition by Norma Santori, that guides you through a sensorial experience based on food and society.
I was in Milan, at Hangar Bicocca, the magnificent and huge space created by Pirelli in 2014.
(Exhibition tickets on Hangar Bicocca website, booking open only every 1st of the month).
The artist, Norma Santori was unknown to me until last year, when, while researching information for my project about haute cuisine, I bumped into her website.
Apparently gentle and fragile, Norma is a talented artist with a strong and powerful vision.
“One day, while I was eating an unripe persimmon I was realizing that this strange sensation on my tongue, very difficult to explain in words, was perfectly representing how I often feel.
One of the images appearing in my mind while thinking about how sad we became, is always all this “social media life” where everyone is happy eating their perfect food.
That’s where my work is coming from.”
(Norma Santori on her work “Menu Degustazione”)
The name itself says a lot about the experience: it will be like a meal in a starred restaurant when you order a “menu degustazione”: you don’t know what you will eat, there will be a personal waitress, comforting at times but also intrusive and you will be guided by the “filter” of a chef (here an artist) and his own vision.
When I enter the exhibition the waitress asks me to leave my bag and my coat at the entrance (no photos or distractions allowed; I will add some drawings).
We start in a dark, narrow room where the only source of light is coming from a led strip on the floor.
We are here, waiting. She is looking at me.
Five minutes passed by, and now she gently inserts a jelly in my mouth with a very mechanical and clerical gesture.
I am eating this jelly and my salivary glands are inflated. I can’t really tell what is in it, but for sure it is very sour.
The mastication lasts just some seconds but it’s a very strong feeling. I am still trying to go back to my normal face.
She is bringing me to another room. This time there is light. It’s low but present.
I can see some kind of orange tagliatelle hanging from the ceiling.
There is a countdown and when it finishes I can start eating.
I am regretting it. These tagliatelle, so nice to see, are really indescribable.
If the artist wanted to recreate the sensation of an “unripe persimmon” on the tongue, well: achieved.
It very difficult to finish this step.
Tagliatelle are really causing me discomfort.
Before entering the third room I’m already feeling uncomfortable with the smell.
It’s a nice smell but too powerful.
Once inside, I’m walking in a hallway and by my sides, there are fountains pouring a soft and creamy soup. I can see everything because there’s light in this room.
The waitress stays next to me and she is holding a big spoon giving me instructions.
She is explaining that this is going to be a little painful because it’s a Sichuan-pepper hot soup.
I immediately understand why she is defining it “painful”: I remember Sichuan pepper from my days in China.
Just a few minutes after eating the soup my mouth is all anesthetized.
I’m now alone in a little room, resting from this and waiting for my palate to come back to normality.
Twenty minutes later my palate is still on flame but the waitress comes and takes me to the final part of the exhibition: an entire wall of lollipops.
This is the bitter pill. “Il boccone amaro”.
I pick one with a strong dandelion flavor, and she is escorting me at the exit.
I’m walking away with my lollipop thinking that it really was a bitter pill.
When some of my friends ask me about contemporary art and a way to understand it, I usually reply that if art is called “contemporary” is because it’s happening just now, and its part of our society.
Understanding it means understanding the era we are.
“Menù Degustazione” is pure awareness.
You start from the dark and you walk into the light with the waitress, who is your guide and almost has the function of a conscience: always at your side holding your hands and bothering you at times but leaving you alone in the most difficult moment.
A reality, where what it seems is not what it is: the first impression can deceive you.
Your eyes are experiencing an almost fairy reality but your taste is feeling terrible.
The sour entrance, like if she wants to let us know that she’s very acid against society; her persimmon tagliatelle leaving this “fur sensation” on the tongue like if we had mince words to say; the Sichuan-pepper soup, that numbs everyone leaving us unable to talk and the bitter final, where it’s clear that the artist is keeping this feeling on and on.
Using a starred restaurant mode of action: creating a path, being guided throughout it, let the user unaware of what’s happening.
Despite the fact that no one is tricking you in a starred restaurant, isn’t it the same mode of action of our society?